Monday, 14 December 2015

office block cowl

I had some left overs from another project, fiddled around with the Autumnal Cowl pattern and came up with this!
Slightly larger at approx 23" around, 6" high



You will need:

5.5mm hook
50g (approx) single colour yarn (I used cascade 220 worsted weight)
25g approx hand dyed aran (worsted) weight yarn
Stitch marker (optional)

Notes on the pattern:


  • I changed colour by completing the first part of the sc in the working yarn, then changing to the next colour by doing the YO and pull through with it and dropping the working yarn
  • I worked in the round (continuous rounds without joining) so the cowl is effectively a spiral.
  • To line up the colour changes I worked the last stitch in the first ch sp for the hand dyed.  For the main colour I worked three rounds, the last stitch was effectively the first stitch of the fourth round.  I counted 4 stitches on the diagonal ahead of where I was working.
  • Carry the yarn you are not working up the inside of the cowl to save on sewing in ends!

Pattern begins:
1,  With MC, ch 100, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st across.  Ch1 (not to turn) and making sure not to twist sc in second sc of the first row to create a loop


(You might prefer to work 99 FSC or to join the chain at 99 sts and work in the round from the start.  I always get in a tangle so I don't!)

2.  Work *ch1, sk sc, sc in next sc* around, work first part of last sc in first ch of last round, change colour and finish sc

3.  With CC, work *ch1, sk sc, sc in ch sp* around, work first part of sc in first ch of previous round, change to MC and finish sc

From here you will be working 3 rounds in MC (in my case blue) then 1 round in CC (yellow/green/blue hand dyed).  Continue until you have 7 rows of CC

Last 2 rows:
28: (MC) *ch1, sk sc, sc in ch sp* around
29: (MC) sc in each ch sp and sc around.  Sl st for two or 3 sts before fastening off, weave in ends.


Thursday, 19 November 2015

Aubergine Shopping Bag

I've been working on this handy shopping bag pattern for a while.  It uses one and a half skein of King Cole Bamboo Cotton yarn (100g per skein, dk, 230 metres) and a 4.5mm hook.  Try sizing up the hook to create a bigger bag (remember to allow for extra yarn!), or re-imagine the simple base as a doily pattern...  Try using up scraps from other projects too.



Pattern begins:
1.  Ch3, work 12dc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to top of first dc to join (12)
2.  Ch2 (does not count as stitch), 2dc in each st around, join with sl st in first dc (24)
3.  Ch2, *2dc, dc* around, sl st in top of first dc (36)
4..  Ch2, *2dc, dc in next 2 sts* around, sl st to join (48)
5.  Ch2, *2dc, dc in next 3 sts* around, sl st to join (60)
6.  Ch2, *2dc, dc in next 4 sts* around, sl st to join (72)
7.  Ch2, *2dc, dc in next 5 sts* around, sl st to join (84)



You may add extra inc rounds here by following the pattern.

Begin sides:

1.  Ch2 (does not count as st), *[dc, ch1, dc] in same sp, sk 2, [2dc, ch1, 2dc], sk2* around, sl st to top of first dc to join
2.  Sl st across to ch sp, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in ch sp, sk sts to next ch sp, [dc, ch1, dc], sk sts to next ch sp* around, sl st in top of first dc to join.
3.  Sl st across to ch sp, [dc, ch1, dc] in ch sp, sk sts to next ch sp, [2dc, ch1, 2dc] in ch sp, sk sts to next ch sp* around, sl st in top of first dc to join.



Repeat rows 2-3 until you are happy with the height (mine is 26 rows total)

Edging:  
1.  Sl st to 2nd dc of [2dc, ch1, 2dc] group, ch1, *sc in same space, sc around ch, sc in next dc, sk last dc of group, sc in next dc, sc around ch sp, sc in dc, sk first dc of next group*, cont in pattern around, sl st to join (84)
2.  Ch1, hdc in each st around, sl st to join
3.  Ch1, sc around, sl st to join, fasten off and weave in ends.



Tunisian handles

1.  Rejoin yarn in 8th st from start.  Pick up sts in the next 6 sc (7 loops on hook), return pass.
2-29 Tunisian simple st in each st across, ret pass.



At this point either tunisian bind off, skip 14 sts and whip stitch to next 7 (matching sts).

Or, skip 20 sts, holding WS tog and with tunisian handle towards you (bag behind), slst tog 21st st and beginning loop, sl st tog next 6 sts, fasten off.

1.  Counting around, sk 14 more sts, rejoin yarn with sl st.  Pick up sts in the next 6 sts, ret pass.
2-29.  Tunisian simple st in each st across, ret pass.



Join end of strap to body of bag in the same way again.

Sew in ends and go shopping!


Wednesday, 16 September 2015

20% off in my Ravelry store!

Just a quick post to let you all know that there is 20% off in my Ravelry store with the code AUTUMN - there is a definite chill in the air here lately and it is time to start curating project lists and planning the winter's crafting!

Here's the link - happy crafting! redclovercrochet Ravelry store

Monday, 31 August 2015

Puff stitch coasters/scrubbies

It's been a while since I posted any new patterns here.  I have been busy recently volunteering with a local wildlife group and starting to think seriously about my career now the kids are growing up a little.  I've also found myself short of funds so I've had to come up with some thriftier ideas, using up left over scraps and clearing some space in the stash!


I have lots of small amounts of cotton and bamboo yarn left over from other projects so I came up with these versatile little puff stitch confections.  They could be used as coasters for drinks, in the bath or shower, for dishwashing...  By extending the pattern out a little further they would also make handy pot holders/trivets for the kitchen too maybe.  Or you could go crazy and make a bath/shower mat version, or even a throw or blanket!

Coasters measure 3 1/2" across.

For the coasters, you will need
  • 8-10g (25 metres or so) of dk weight cotton, bamboo, linen, or even wool (although be careful of washing instructions!)
  • 4mm hook
  • darning needle
Special stitches: 
Beg puff stitch group:  ch2, *yarn over, insert in stitch and draw up a loop* 3 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook, ch2, puff st
Puff stitch: *yarn over, insert in stitch and draw up a loop* 4 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook
Beg puff stitch group:  ch2, *yarn over, insert in stitch and draw up a loop* 3 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook, ch2, puff st
Puff st group:  Puff st, ch2, puff st in same space
Puff st inc:  Puff st, ch2, puff st, ch2, puff st in same space
Beg puff st inc: beg puff st group, ch2, puff st (3 puff st, 2 ch sps)

By alternating where you put the increase in each round you can avoid your coaster becoming too boxy, in this pattern I have alternated putting the inc at the beginning and end of each 'phrase'.

Pattern begins:
  1. Ch5, sl st to form loop.  Beg puff stitch inc, puff st inc twice, sl st in top of first puff st (9 puffs, 6 ch sp).
  2. Sl st across to ch sp.  Beg puff st group, puff st inc in next ch sp, *puff st group, puff st inc* twice, sl st to top of first (15 puffs, 9 ch sps)
  3. Sl st across to ch sp.  Beg puff st inc, puff st group in each of the next 2 ch sp, [puff st, inc, *puff st group* in each of the next 2 ch sp] twice, sl st in top of first (21 puffs, 12 ch sp)
  4. Sl st across to ch sp.  Beg puff st group, puff st group in each of the next 2 ch sp, puff st inc in next ch sp, [puff st group in each of the next 3 ch sp, puff st inc] twice, sl st in top of first to join.
Fasten off and weave in ends.



Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Beaded Net Curtains - yes, really!

Oh yes I did.  I finally got sick of looking at the grubby old nylon things hanging at the windows so I thought I should make some of my own.

 

These are based on my favourite stitch pattern, I've heard it called linen stitch, granite stitch, grit stitch...  in any case it creates a wonderfully floaty light fabric.  So I knew it would need some beads to hold it in place!
I had some left over Mill Hill beads in gold and lilac from other projects (about 3/4 of a pack of each).  I chose to add 3 or 4 beads every 3 or 4 rows, starting on row 11.  You can just about see them in the second pic!

For yarn, I picked up 2 skeins of my favourite yarn from the LYS in town - King Cole Bamboo Cotton 4 ply.  I used around 75g for each curtain.

Each curtain measures 14" width, 38" drop.

Pattern

You will need:
  • 4.5mm hook
  • 9mm hook
  • small (0.6mm ish) hook for beading
  • blocking equipment
  • 2 skeins of 4ply cotton or cotton/bamboo or even wool if your heart desires!  I used a cotton/bamboo blend with 371m (400yd) per 100g
You will also need knowledge of the bead as you go technique (or if you have more patience than me you could pre-string the beads!)

1.  With the smaller hook, fsc 78 (or an even number of fsc to fit) (or ch an odd number, sc in 2nd ch from hook - to give an even number of sc), turn.  Change up to larger hook

2.  Ch1, *sc, ch1, sk1* across, sc in last 2, turn

3 - 10: Repeat row 2

11.  Repeat row 2 but add 3 or 4 randomly spaced beads to sc stitches on row, turn.

Continue in pattern:  3 plain rows, 1 beaded row until you reach the length you want.  After blocking, 2 rows will measure approx. 1".  So my curtains have 75 rows made on the larger hook for 36" length (excl ending loops).

You may choose to add more beads per row lower down.

Finishing rows:

Change back to the smaller (4.5mm) hook, ch1, work 1 sc in each sc and each ch across, turn.

Add a border of your choice - maybe in a contrasting colour.  I went for a simple loopy border of 9 chs evenly spaced with a bead in the fifth ch.  You could add a filet border, a pineapple border...  or even a border borrowed from a pretty shawl.

When the border is finished, fasten off and weave in ends.  Rejoin yarn in other side of fsc (smaller hook!).  Ch1, sc, *sc, ch3, sc in next, sc* across to end, sc if yo are left with an odd stitch.  Fasten off.

Wet block to size, hang and enjoy the morning sun catching the beads!

Thursday, 27 November 2014

Blackberry Smoothie headband

When creativity strikes I usually end up working on half a dozen new patterns at once.  One maybe two of those ideas will then make it to the point of being written up.  This last couple of weeks I have been working on some Tunisian crochet ideas and a couple of days ago I finished a rough draft of a tunisian hat.  It needs some refining to make the numbers add up but it may well make it to being written up properly!

Just as I had finished, a couple of people asked me to make them a headband to keep their ears warm.  I love the fit of the Tunisian knit stitch band so I upped the stitch count a little and came up with this:



Snug and cosy!  The yarn is superwash merino so easy care (yay!) aaaaand the headband should keep it's shape pretty well too.  I managed to get 2 of these out of a 50g (165m/180yd) skein of sportweight merino.  However the pattern works as well in dk weight too :)

Finished size: 15" around (to fit a 22" head) 3.5" wide

You will need:
  • 50g sport weight merino (I used Katia Merino Baby in purple)
  • 5mm hook (standard length is fine, all the stitches will fit!)
  • darning needle to weave in ends

Stitches used:  This piece is worked in Tunisian knit stitch (TKS).  To make the stitch, push hook between the two vertical bars in the stitch you are working into, and pull up a loop.  Continue across like this - in the last (end stitch) pull up a loop as normal.
Return pass:  YO, pull through first, *YO pull through 2* across until one loop remains. Start next row!



1.  Ch 20
2. Forward pass, return pass
3.  TKS in each stitch across, return pass.

Repeat row 3 until piece measures approx. 15" (mine is 86 rows total).  With right sides facing each other, sl st together matching stitches.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Or if you prefer, work a Tunisian bind off row to finish and whip stitch together.

You could add buttons or crochet flowers to decorate.
Repeat row 3 until headband reaches size required.  Mine are 86 rows long for a 22" head.

Monday, 15 September 2014

Rustic Wrap Cardi

I was having a sort through my stash at the weekend.  I'm pleased to report I've now made a reasonable dent in it and I've managed to clear a whole trug!  While I was going through everything I found a few yarns I had left over from my cloth nappying days and thought I should make something with it.  I wanted a cardigan pattern but as is so often the case, I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for, so I came up with my own pattern.


The finished cardi has a 24" chest (approx age 5), if you need to adjust this you could add a couple more chains when you form armholes.

You will need:
6.5mm hook
300g worsted/aran or bulky weight yarn.  The original is made with Arucania Magallenes which is a thick and thin slubby-esque yarn.
4 stitch markers

1. Ch51, dc in 3rd ch from hook (turning ch does not count as stitch here or throughout) and each st across, turn (49)
2.  Ch2 (doesn't count!) 2dc in first st, dc in each stitch across, 2dc in last, turn (51)
3. Ch2, 2dc in first, dc in next 11, 3dc place marker in first and 3rd stitches just made, dc in next 25 sts, 3dc place marker in first and 3rd sts just made, dc in next 11, 2dc in last, turn (57)
4. Ch2, 2dc in first, dc to first marked st, *3dc in marked st, move marker to first st of cluster, dc to next marked st 3dc in marked st, move marker to third st of cluster, * dc to next marked st, rep **, dc to last, 2dc in last, turn (67)
5-10.  Repeat row 4, increasing by 10 stitches on each row > (77, 87, 97, 107, 117, 127)

To form armholes:
11. Ch2, 2dc in first, dc to  first marked st, ch2,  sk both marked sts and those in between and rejoin with a dc in st after second marked st, dc across to third marked st, ch2, sk both marked sts and those in between and rejoin with a dc in st after fourth marked st, dc to last, 2dc in last, turn. (71)
Leave markers in to help you see where you need to work when you join the sleeves.
12.  Ch2, 2dc in first, dc to last (remember to work a dc in each ch under arm (2dc in each ch2 sp), 2dc in last, turn (73)
13- 28:  Repeat row 12
Do not fasten off!!
Finishing round:  turn your work to work along side of front up towards neck band, ch1, work 2sc in each dc row end to first neck corner, work 3dc in corner st, sc in each st around neck, 3sc in next corner sp, 2sc in each dc row end to next corner, 3sc in corner sp, sc in each st to last corner, 3sc in last corner, join with a sl st, fasten off and sew in ends. 

To work sleeves, make sure you working in the opposite direction to previous yoke row!
1.  Join with a sl st in one of the ch sps under arms, ch2, dc in same sp, dc2tog across dc row end and marked st (remove marker), dc  in each st around to marked st, work dc2tog across marked st and dc row end, dc in other ch sp, sl st to join round, turn. (33)
2-19: ch2, dc in each st around, join with a sl st in top of first st of round, turn (33)

Fasten off, weave in ends, sew on buttons!  There are no buttonholes in this pattern, just use the holes in the fabric.